STAGE 18
ALBANYÁ - MAÇANET DE CABRENYS
- Distance: 17.1 km
- Difficulty level: NORMAL
- Maximum altitude: 946
- Minimum altitude: 226
- height gain: 1620
- height loss: 1485
Stage 18: ALBANYÁ - MAÇANET DE CABRENYS
This stage, up to the foot of the Fau hermitage, will be different for those who go by bicycle. At the end of this writing there are 2 possible itineraries to reach this point of confluence.
From the church square in Albanyà, we will go up the street and at the end we will turn right towards the alleyway of the town hall, and shortly after passing it, on our left, we will see a dirt track with a chain, from where the GR-11 starts, which we will follow for several kilometres until we reach Mas de La Trilla.
Later, after 1.8 kilometres, we will pass the Romanesque hermitage of San Feliu de Carbonills, a pleasant place to stop.
Later, after 1.1 kilometers we will see Mas de La Trilla. In this country house, in 1948, the image of the Virgin Mary, which is currently venerated in the Fau hermitage, was blessed (the previous one was destroyed in the Civil War of 1936). Fossil molluscs from the Cretaceous era (65 million years ago) are located throughout the area.
If we go on foot we will have to be careful to find the right path and for this we will go towards the 3 buildings that make up the farmhouse and just going up the cobbled ground we will leave the GR-11 and we will go into the forest along a narrow path following the yellow Itinneraria signs, until in 1.7 kilometres we will arrive at the Collada del Fau (914 m).
At this point there is a crossroads. The one on the right will take us in 200 metres to the beautiful church of Mare de Déu del Fau at an altitude of 949 metres, where we can enjoy pleasant views. It is well worth doing.
On returning to the same point, we will take the turning to the right, marked with yellow and white paint, which in a few minutes of descent will take us to the crossroads where the path for cyclists comes together, which, as we have said, is marked by a large number of cement sacks.
If we are feeling strong, we can carry one of these sacks to the top of the hermitage, which, as the sign indicates, will be used for the reconstruction of this beautiful Romanesque church. This is a good excuse for cyclists to visit the church and at the same time show off their excellent physical strength.
We will continue along the path to the right along the dirt track, following the white and yellow paint markings, which at some points will lead we to take a shortcut. Cyclists should always follow the track.
After 2.6 kilometres we will reach the Romanesque church of Sant Pere dels Vilars, a good place to stop and take a photograph.
Just below, the path comes across a farmhouse where there is usually a chain that apparently blocks the way. If this is the case, we must go over or under this obstacle and follow the path passing right next to the walls of the building, following the yellow and white signs.
We will descend for 1.9 kilometres to the recreational area of La Farga and then cross the river Arnera to reach the Molí de l'Olivet, where in summer there is a place to camp. If you fancy a swim, a few metres downstream there is a deep, publicly accessible pool called the Gorga de les Dones.
From this point we will reach an asphalted road and following on the left, in 1 kilometre we will reach the G-503 road that leads to France.
We will continue straight on along this asphalted street (Carrer de Figueres) and then at a crossroads some 200 metres further on we will continue to the right and shortly afterwards we will reach the main square of Maçanet de Cabrenys, and right next to it is the church of Sant Martí, the end of this stage.
SHORT BIKE ROUTE (24.8 km)
We describe this stage by bicycle as "difficult" since you have to push the bike uphill for 300 meters to connect one dirt track with another, and also because there are points without mobile phone coverage. The positive side of the stage is that there are many possibilities to see deer.
We will leave Albanyà in the direction of Camping Bassegoda Park, which we will circumambulate, leaving the Muga river on our right. We will continue along this road at first cemented and later, with a fair rise, turned into a dirt track for 7 kilometres, always continuing in the direction of Hostal de la Muga.
Then we will take a path to our right that we can recognize, since there is usually a metal chain and a sign "Reserva de pesca". Descending after a while we will cross the Muga river.
Later we may see a metal fence indicating that it is a private farm. Without making any damage or deteriorating anything, we will make use of the "right of way" and shortly after we will cross the Major river and then we will pass next to the buildings of the farmhouse La Figa.
From here we will continue going up the track for 3 kilometers until we reach the ruins of El Manso la Pardella, and at the crossroads we see on this climb we will turn left.
After La Pardilla farmhouse we must pay attention to any crossroads, since at 780 meters we will have to leave the dirt track, turning sharply to our right. We can recognize this place by some red paint spots.
After 85 meters we must pay attention again to locate a path to our left, marked with red painted arrows.
Here we must go up carrying the bicycles for 300 meters and we will be guided by the red and yellow paint marks that we will see on some stones and trees.
When we reach the top we will glimpse a new dirt track. We can recognize that we are in the right place when we see some wooden indicators nailed to a pine tree a little further on.
Here we will continue downhill towards the farmhouse la Fiola. In some points, the passage of the road is made difficult by fallen stones and by the vegetation that is growing due to the abandonment of these dirt tracks, caused by the impediment of the passage of the owners of the farms to motor vehicles, since if were this not the case, they would be more easily passable.
At 1,300 meters we will arrive at the ruins of Mas de la Fiola (old farmhouse), which we will leave on our right and continue up the track that is barely distinguishable as it is heavily covered by vegetation.
Fortunately, from here the path will improve little by little, especially after passing another road closure through a fence and after 1.5 kilometers we will arrive at the well-kept Mas de la Gavarra (a farmhouse), currently converted into a habitual residence.
Here we will turn right and we will only have 1.2 kilometers left to reach the foot of the hill of del Fau, a place where we will meet those who are on foot. We will distinguish the place by a pile of bags of cement.
If we feel strong we can carry one of these sacks to the top of the hermitage, which, as the sign indicates, will be used to rebuild this beautiful Romanesque church. Which is a good excuse to visit the church.
From here the route for bicycles is the same as for those who go on foot, until reaching the end of the stage in the cozy town of Maçanet de Cabrenys.
LONG BIKE ROUTE (42 km)
We put this possibility longer for cyclists who are in good shape, since it is very varied in contrasts and gives the possibility of visiting the historic Hostal de la Muga and visiting the French town of Coustoges (Costoja in catalan).
We will leave Albanyà in the direction of Camping Bassegoda Park, which we will circumambulate, leaving the Muga river on our right. We will continue along this road at first cemented and later, with quite a rise, turned into a dirt track, always continuing in the direction of Hostal de la Muga.
At 7.3 kilometers we will arrive at the disappeared town of Pincaró where we can visit the church of San Bartolomé (13th century).
Then, after 11.8 kilometres, going up, down and crossing 7 streams, we can visit the remains of the Romanesque church of Sant Corneli de Ribelles (12th century) which belonged to the town of Bassegoda, currently annexed to Albanyà.
Then, crossing the River Muga, we will barely have 500 meters left to reach the ruins of the Hostal de la Muga farmhouse, which was inhabited until 1992 when the Met de la Muga died. At the beginning of the eighties it was still a hostel and you could buy groceries and spend the night in a rural environment without luxuries.
Going through a path we will cross the border with France and then we will go up a track for 800 until the Les Meners farmhouse. Then we will only have 900 meters left until we reach Pla Castanyer where we will see a paved road. But right after stepping on it, we will turn to the right, taking the so-called communal track from Coustouges to Villeroge, which in 5.4 kilometers will take us to the town of Coustouges (Costoja).
After the visit to the church of Santa María we will leave the town going down the D3 road and after 1.9 kilometers we will pass over the Major river bridge and enter Spain. Then we will go up the same road (now called GI-503) for 2.2 kilometers until we reach Coll dels Horts. Here we will have 2 options. If we are very tired we can continue along the road, which always goes downhill and on asphalt, will take us past the town of Tapis (4.5 km away) and then to Maçanet de Cabrenys (another 7 km more).
The other option, the one indicated on the map (GPS tracks), is to turn right along the dirt track that in 1.7 kilometers will take us to the well-kept La Gavarra farmhouse, currently converted into a habitual residence. And then continuing along the same track, we will only have 1.2 kilometers left to reach the foot of the Collada del Fau (a hill), a place where we will meet those who are on foot. We will distinguish the place by a pile of bags of cement.
If we feel strong we can carry one of these sacks to the top of the hermitage, which, as the sign indicates, will be used to rebuild this beautiful Romanesque church. Which is a good excuse to visit the church.
From here the route for bicycles is the same as for those who go on foot, until reaching the end of the stage in the cozy town of Maçanet de Cabrenys.
accommodation and practical information stage 18
MAÇANET DE CABRENYS
Although the village of Maçanet de Cabrenys is very small, it has several places to stay, restaurants and other services. Here you can visit its website:
