STAGE 20
LA JONQUERA - CANTALLOPS
- Distance: 27.2 km
- Difficulty level: challenging
- Maximum altitude: 715
- Minimum altitude: 108
- height gain: 2,208
- height loss: 2,116
Stage 20: La Jonquera - Cantallops
From carrer Major we will cross the Llobregat river over the bridge and just after we will go through the tunnel that crosses under the N-II road and the AP-7 motorway.
At the end of the road we will turn right, heading north, following the dirt track that runs parallel to this infrastructure.
We will follow this track for several kilometres, crossing the motorway repeatedly from left to right and back again.
We will be guided by the signs indicating Sant Juliá and above all by the signs that Pirinexus have put up, which will accompany us to the Coll de Panissars.
Note: If we go on foot in the last 200 metres we can take a shortcut that will take us straight up to the top.
If we go by bicycle we will continue along the road following the Pirinexus signs.
Here we will can contemplate the so-called Trofeus de Pompeu in the Summus Pyrenaeus, the ancient Via Augusta from Hispania converged with the Via Domitia coming from France, between the regions of Vallespir and Alt Empordà.
This unique building was erected in 71 BC to commemorate the victory of the Roman general Pompey the Great against Quintus Sertorius and the indigenous rebels of Hispania (Indiketes) who supported him.
Pompey was later allied with Julius Caesar and Marcus Licinius Crassus in an unstable political alliance known as the First Triumvirate. He would later fight on the side of the Optimates, the aristocratic and conservative faction of the Roman Senate, until he was defeated by Caesar at the Battle of Pharsalus. He sought refuge in Egypt, where he was assassinated on 28 September 48 BC.
An important battle also took place here in 1285 between King Pere the Great and the French King Philip III of France, in which the Catalan king was victorious.
On the Coll de Panissars we will also see on the right the Castell de Bellaguarda, a modern military fortress located in the communal area of Pertús, built on the ruins of an ancient medieval castle that was handed over to France in the Treaty of the Pyrenees, after the end of the Thirty Years' War.
In the Middle Ages it separated the County of Empúries from the County of Roussillon, and in the 13th century it was a border between the Kingdom of Mallorca and the Kingdoms of Catalonia and Aragon.
To continue along the path, we will take the asphalted road that passes next to the Military Cemetery, which, after a short while, descending downhill, will take us to Pertús.
Once in the centre of the village, we will cross the main street to the Spanish side in search of the tunnel that crosses the AP-7 motorway. Then on the other side we will follow the signs to Salto de Fitor.
Shortly after arriving we will see some yellow Itinneraria signs which, if we go on foot, open up 2 possibilities.
A shorter but also more difficult one, which is to continue along the Salto de Fitor, as we will have to climb (almost climb) a very steep slope with stones that will take us to the old medieval village of Sant Pere del Plá de l'Arca.
And the other, easier option is to go through Mas de l'Illa. Of course, this second option is recommended for those who ride a bicycle, unless they do not want to carry their bikes on their backs for a long time.
A third possibility is to visit the Salto de Fitor (about 10 minutes from this point) and then return again, and continue along the other route.
If you opt for the first option after the Salt de Fitor, we will climb a difficult section of stones in which we will have to hold on to some chains and then almost climb a stone path until we reach a track that shortly leads to Sant Pere del Pla de l'Arca.
The second option (necessary for those on bicycles and for minors) will take us to the same place after a short detour. After a steep climb along a track, turn right along a path where you can see a water pipe to the ruins of Mas de l'Illa.
Just after this we will come to a junction with a dirt track. There we will turn right onto the track that goes downhill and a few metres further on crosses a stream.
And then, almost always going uphill, after a few kilometres we will arrive at Sant Pere del Pla de l'Arca.
Here we can contemplate the ruins of one of the first Romanesque churches in the world.
Then we will continue along the same track in a steep ascent to Más del Calze.
At this point we will find a detour and we will take the path on the right that descends into the forest and shortly afterwards we will reach the Coll de l'Auleda.
Here we will see a track on the right that if we were to follow it downhill would take us directly to Cantallops, but we will look for the GR-11 signs on the left (red and white) that we will follow until we reach a track from which we can see a beautiful panoramic view of the Ampurdan plain and the Gulf of Roses in the background.
We will continue downhill on the right and after a short while, if we are attentive, we will see on our left the remains of a French DC-6 plane that crashed, putting out a fire on 19 July 1986, killing its 4 crew members.
We will continue downhill for several kilometres until we will reach a large farmhouse inside which is the Sanctuary of the Mare de Deu de Requesens and what used to be the old "Cantina" of the castle, now converted into a bar-restaurant.
Shortly after, we will reach the fountain and from this point we will make a small detour and climb the 900 metres that separate us from Requesens Castle.
On the way back from the castle, we will follow the track and after a few kilometres, after opening and closing the metal gate that closes off the Requesens area, we will take a path on the left, which descends and in a few kilometers will take us to the town of Cantallops, end of this stage.
ACCOMMODATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION STAGE 20
EL LIMITS / LE PERTHUS
Hotel Chez Grand Mere (+33 4 68 67 35 77) Rue de la redoute, 5. From 25€.
Restaurant Roselló (972 55 50 65) Carrer Doctor Subirós, 4 Menu at 16€.
Restaurant El Tabasco (639 81 35 38) Carrer Doctor Subirós, 6 Menu at 18€.
Resaurant Casa Sixto (972 55 51 67) Carrer Dr. Subiró, 55 Menu 12€ 12€ 12.50
Restaurant Le Regent (+33 4 68 83 62 75) Av. France, 68 Menu at 13€.
Rest. Les Cocottes de la Montagne (+33 4 68 57 16 92) Av. France, 68 Menu at 13€.
Rest. La Taverna del Wine Palace (972 55 40 82) Av. España, 1. Menu at 18€.
SANTUARI MARE DE DÉU DE REQUESENS
Bar-Restaurant La Cantina (613 30 68 60) Santuari de Requesens, s/n
CANTALLOPS
Rural Guesthouse Can Pau (972 55 48 18) Ctra. GI-601,km 4. From 80€ with breakfast.
Hotel Can Xiquet (972 55 44 55) Afores, s/n. From 100€ with breakfast.
Hotel Masia Serra (689 60 49 05) Carrer del Solés, 20. From 220€ with breakfast.
Restaurant Can Tomàs (972 55 48 89) Plaça del Fort, 7. Menu at 12€.
Restaurant Can Pau (972 55 48 81) Ctra. GI-601,km 4 Menu at 14€.
Sayal Restaurant (872 99 33 89) Carrer la Jonquera, 117. Menu at 14€.
Supermarket: Only one is open for a few hours in the morning.
